How to Choose the Right Climbing Carabiner

Carabiners are essential tools for rock climbing, providing secure connections between ropes, harnesses, and protection points. Choosing the right climbing carabiner can improve safety, efficiency, and ease of use. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, understanding the different types and features of carabiners will help you select the best one for your needs.

1. Types of Climbing Carabiners

1.1 Locking Carabiners

Locking carabiners have a mechanism that prevents accidental gate opening. They are used for belaying, rappelling, and building anchors.

Screwgate – Requires manual screwing to lock. Reliable but requires attention to ensure it is locked.

Auto-locking (Twist-lock, Triple-lock, etc.) – Locks automatically when closed, offering extra security. Ideal for belaying and safety-critical applications.

Best for: Belaying, anchors, rappelling, and safety-critical points.

1.2 Non-Locking Carabiners

Non-locking carabiners have a spring-loaded gate that opens and closes automatically. They are used in situations where quick clipping and unclipping are necessary.

Straight Gate – Durable and easy to clip. Often used for attaching gear or bolt-side quickdraws.

Bent Gate – The curved shape makes clipping the rope easier. Common on the rope end of quickdraws.

Wire Gate – Lightweight and resistant to freezing in cold conditions. Ideal for trad and alpine climbing.

Best for: Quickdraws, racking gear, and alpine climbing.

2. Carabiner Shapes

2.1 D-Shape (Offset-D)

The strongest and most common shape for climbing.

Directs force toward the spine, maximizing strength.

Often used for belaying, rappelling, and clipping into anchors.

Best for: General climbing, belaying, rappelling.

2.2 Oval

Symmetrical shape distributes weight evenly.

Less strength than D-shaped carabiners but versatile.

Ideal for aid climbing and racking nuts/cams.

Best for: Racking gear, aid climbing.

2.3 HMS (Pear-Shaped)

Wide top allows for better rope movement.

Designed for belaying with a Munter hitch and used in anchor setups.

Often features an auto-locking mechanism for extra safety.

Best for: Belaying, rappelling, anchor building.

2.4 Asymmetrical D-Shape (Modified D)

Lighter than standard D-shaped carabiners while maintaining strength.

Used in belay devices and quickdraws.

Best for: Sport climbing, belaying.

3. Carabiner Gate Types

3.1 Straight Gate

Strong and durable, often used for bolt-side quickdraws.

Easy to open with one hand.

Best for: Sport climbing, attaching gear.

3.2 Bent Gate

Curved shape makes rope clipping easier.

Often used for the rope-end of quickdraws.

Best for: Quickdraws, sport climbing.

3.3 Wire Gate

Lighter than solid gates and reduces gate flutter (accidental opening).

Less likely to freeze in cold conditions.

Best for: Trad climbing, alpine climbing, ice climbing.

3.4 Auto-Locking Gate

Automatically locks when closed, enhancing security.

Preferred for belaying and anchoring.

Best for: Belaying, anchors, high-security applications.

4. Carabiner Size & Weight

Smaller Carabiners – Lighter and great for alpine climbing, but harder to handle with gloves.

Larger Carabiners – Easier to clip and handle, ideal for belaying and rappelling.

Tip: Balance weight and usability based on your climbing style.

5. Strength Ratings

Climbing carabiners are rated for strength in three directions, measured in kilonewtons (kN):

Major Axis Strength – The strongest direction, usually 20-30kN.

Minor Axis Strength – Sideways loading strength, usually 7-10kN.

Open Gate Strength – The weakest, usually 6-9kN.

Tip: Always choose carabiners with a major axis strength of at least 20kN for climbing safety.

Final Tips for Choosing the Right Carabiner

Prioritize Safety – Look for certified carabiners with CE/UIAA ratings.

Consider Your Climbing Style – Different types of climbing require different carabiners.
Check Gate Action – Smooth and easy operation improves efficiency.
Balance Weight & Strength – Lighter is better for trad/alpine, but strength is critical.

Buy from Reputable Brands – Black Diamond, Petzl, DMM, CAMP, and Edelrid offer high-quality options.

By choosing the right climbing carabiner, you enhance your safety and climbing experience. Happy climbing!