Carabiner Weight Limits: How Much Can They Really Hold?

When using carabiners for climbing, rigging, or outdoor activities, understanding their true weight capacity is crucial for safety. Many users wonder: "Can my carabiner really support my weight plus gear?" The answer depends on several factors, including material, design, and proper usage.

Understanding kN Ratings

Carabiners are strength-rated in kilonewtons (kN), where 1 kN ≈ 225 lbs. Standard ratings include:

• Major Axis (Lengthwise Load): 20-30 kN (4,500-6,700 lbs) – The strongest direction
• Minor Axis (Side Load): 7-10 kN (1,500-2,250 lbs) – Much weaker
• Open Gate Strength: 6-9 kN (1,350-2,000 lbs) – Never clip under load

Material Matters: Aluminum vs. Steel

• Aluminum Carabiners (common in climbing): Lighter (20-30 kN) but wear faster
• Steel Carabiners (industrial/rigging): Heavier but stronger (30-50+ kN)

Real-World Safety Factors

• Never exceed 1/3 of the rated capacity for safety margins
• Avoid side loading – reduces strength by 60-70%
• Locking carabiners maintain strength better than non-locking

Common Mistakes That Reduce Strength

⚠️ Using worn/damaged carabiners
⚠️ Cross-loading (side pressure)
⚠️ Gate-open loading (e.g., improper clipping)

Always inspect carabiners for cracks, sharp edges, or corrosion. For climbing, stick to UIAA/CE-certified models. When in doubt, replace old or questionable gear – your life depends on it!