Need Carabiner for Petzl GriGri, Which Model?

Selecting the correct carabiner for your Petzl GriGri belay device is not a matter of preference; it is a critical safety choice that directly affects the device's performance, your ability to manage the rope, and ultimately, your partner's security. The GriGri’s design requires specific features from a carabiner to function as intended. Using the wrong model can lead to malfunction, difficult rope handling, and increased risk.

The Official Requirement: Why Shape and Size Matter

Petzl’s own instructions are explicit: use a large, pear-shaped (HMS) locking carabiner. Here’s why:

1. Accommodates the Device: The wide, rounded end of an HMS carabiner provides the necessary space for the GriGri’s body to sit without being pinched or forced into an awkward angle. A smaller, D-shaped carabiner can cramp the device, causing the rope to run unevenly and making it difficult to engage the cam smoothly.
2. Ensures Smooth Rope Travel: The pear shape creates a natural, open channel for the rope to feed into and out of the device without sharp bends or friction points against the carabiner spine.
3. Allows for a Munter Hitch (Contingency Use): The HMS shape is designed to properly accommodate a Munter hitch. While you primarily use the GriGri, having the capability to use a Munter on the same carabiner in an emergency (e.g., if the GriGri is dropped) is a significant safety advantage.

The Top Recommended Models

Based on the above criteria, these carabiners are considered the gold standard:

1. Petzl Attache / Petzl William

• The Manufacturer’s Choice: Petzl designs the GriGri to work optimally with its own HMS carabiners.
• Petzl Attache: The classic, tried-and-true workhorse. It’s a bit heavier but renowned for its smooth screwgate action and bombproof durability. It instills confidence.
• Petzl William: A more refined, slightly lighter version of the Attache with a similar shape and performance. Often preferred for its sleekness.
• Why they excel: Perfect dimensional compatibility, proven reliability, and the assurance that the system (device + carabiner) is engineered to work together.

2. Black Diamond RockLock (HMS)

• The Industry Standard: This carabiner is ubiquitous at crags worldwide. Its large, heavily knurled screwgate collar is exceptionally easy to manipulate, even with cold or gloved hands.
• Why it excels: Offers performance and compatibility equal to the Petzl models, often at a slightly lower price point or with greater color availability. Its ergonomics are widely praised.

3. DMM Sentinel / Boa

• Premium Alternatives: DMM’s HMS lockers offer superb craftsmanship. The Sentinel has a great grip, while the Boa is an excellent auto-locking alternative.
• Why they excel: For those who prefer DMM’s engineering or an auto-locking mechanism, these are fully compatible, high-quality choices.

4. Auto-Locking Carabiners (e.g., Petzl Ball Lock)

• A Secure Alternative: A carabiner with an auto-locking gate (like the Petzl Ball Lock or a triple-action locker) can be used and provides excellent security against accidental opening.
• Consideration: Some climbers find them slightly slower to operate than a screwgate for frequent clipping/unclipping of the device. Ensure the mechanism doesn’t interfere with the GriGri’s movement.

Crucial Features Your Carabiner MUST Have

• Locking Gate: ABSOLUTELY MANDATORY. A non-locking carabiner is never safe for belaying.
• HMS/Pear Shape: As established, this is non-negotiable for optimal function.
• UIAA/CE Certification: Your life depends on this certification. Never use an uncertified carabiner.
• Adequate Size: The carabiner should be large enough that the GriGri can pivot freely and the gate can close completely around your harness’s belay loop.

How to Connect It: Proper Setup

1. Clip the carabiner through your harness’s belay loop (never just the tie-in points).
2. Attach the GriGri to the carabiner via its designated cable/hole. Ensure the device is oriented correctly for right- or left-hand use according to the manual.
3. Fully screw down the locking sleeve until it stops. Visually and physically check that the gate is completely closed and locked before every use.

Models to Avoid

• Any Non-Locking Carabiner: A grave safety error.
• Small or D-Shaped Locking Carabiners: They will impair the GriGri’s function.
• Oval Carabiners: While sometimes used, they are not ideal as they can allow the GriGri to tilt into an inefficient position.
• Any Carabiner Not Rated for Climbing: This should be obvious, but bears repeating.

Final Verdict and Recommendation

For a new GriGri user or anyone seeking guaranteed, no-compromise compatibility, the Petzl Attache or Black Diamond RockLock (HMS) are the unequivocal top choices. They are the benchmark for a reason.

If you prefer the security of an auto-locking mechanism, a Petzl Ball Lock HMS is a excellent, modern choice.

Ultimately, your GriGri carabiner is the linchpin of your belay system. Investing in the correct, high-quality model—and using it properly—is a fundamental aspect of responsible climbing. It ensures your device performs as engineered, giving you smooth control and your partner the safety they trust you to provide. Choose one of the recommended HMS lockers, maintain it, inspect it, and lock it every single time.