How often should you replace a carabiner clip?

Carabiners are the unsung heroes of climbing, rescue, and outdoor adventures—until they fail. Unlike ropes or harnesses, their lifespan isn’t always obvious. Replace them too soon, and you waste money; replace them too late, and you risk disaster. Here’s how to strike the perfect balance between safety and practicality.

1. When to Replace Immediately

Retire a carabiner on sight if you notice:

• Cracks or Deformations: Even hairline fractures weaken structural integrity.
• Gate Malfunctions: Sticky, wobbly, or misaligned gates (e.g., doesn’t close flush).
• Corrosion: Rust or pitting, especially on steel models or near the hinge.
• Fall Impact: Any carabiner involved in a severe fall (forces exceed 50% of its kN rating).

2. Factors Affecting Lifespan

Frequency of Use

• Heavy Use (Daily): Industrial or guide carabiners (e.g., Petzl William) last 2–3 years.
• Recreational Use: Replace every 5–7 years if undamaged.

Environment

• Saltwater/Moisture: Stainless steel lasts longer, but inspect every 3 months.
• UV Exposure: Nylon-sleeved carabiners (e.g., auto-locks) degrade faster—replace every 2 years.
• Chemical Exposure: Acidic substances (e.g., battery leaks) corrode aluminum quickly.

Material

• Aluminum: Lightweight but prone to wear; retire after 5+ years.
• Steel: Durable but heavy; lasts 10+ years in low-corrosion environments.

3. The 6-Month Inspection Routine

Even unused carabiners age. Follow this checklist:

1. Visual Check: Use a magnifying glass for micro-cracks.
2. Gate Test: Open/close 10 times—should feel smooth, not gritty.
3. Load Test: Hang 50+ lbs (non-dynamically) to check for deformation.
4. Thread Check (Screwgates): Ensure no cross-threading or stripping.

4. Industry Standards vs. Reality

• UIAA/EN Guidelines: No fixed expiration, but mandate retirement after any critical damage.
• Manufacturer Advice: Brands like Black Diamond suggest 5–10 years for recreational use.
• Professional Consensus: Rescue teams replace gear every 3–5 years, regardless of visible wear.

5. Extending Your Carabiner’s Life

• Rinse After Use: Remove dirt and salt with fresh water.
• Store Dry: Avoid damp bags or direct sunlight.
• Avoid Sharp Edges: Use a nylon sleeve if clipped to abrasive surfaces.

6. Top Replacements for 2024

• High Mileage: DMM Sentinel (auto-lock, 24 kN) for frequent climbers.
• Harsh Environments: CAMP Orbit Steel (rust-resistant, 30 kN).
• Budget-Friendly: Edelrid Bulletproof (hybrid design, 25 kN).

7. The “When in Doubt” Rule

If you question a carabiner’s reliability, retire it. A $20 carabiner is cheaper than an ER visit. Document retirement dates with a marker or app (e.g., Gear Tracker).

Final Verdict
Replace carabiners based on use intensity, environmental stress, and visible damage—not just age. For climbers, annual inspections and post-fall replacements are non-negotiable. In industrial settings, follow OSHA’s 3-year replacement mandate. Remember: Carabiners don’t expire; they earn retirement through service.