Homemade alternatives to climbing swivel rings
In the world of climbing and rigging, safety is non-negotiable. Yet, some adventurers—whether driven by budget constraints, curiosity, or emergency scenarios—explore homemade alternatives to critical gear like climbing swivel rings. While DIY ingenuity has its place, substituting engineered safety devices with makeshift solutions can lead to catastrophic consequences. This article dismantles common myths, exposes the dangers of homemade swivel rings, and guides you toward safe, temporary fixes for extreme situations.
Why Swivel Rings Can’t Be Improvised
Swivel rings are precision tools designed to:
- Handle Dynamic Loads: Engineered to withstand multi-directional forces (e.g., 25–50 kN).
- Rotate Smoothly: Sealed bearings or bushings reduce friction under tension.
- Resist Wear: Made from certified materials (stainless steel, aluminum) tested for corrosion and fatigue.
Homemade alternatives lack these critical features, introducing risks like:
- Sudden Failure: Non-certified materials (e.g., hardware store bolts) may snap under loads far below climbing demands.
- Binding or Jamming: Poor rotation increases friction, overheating ropes or metal.
- Corrosion: Untested metals rust quickly, weakening the system.
Common (and Dangerous) DIY Swivel Substitutes
- Linked CarabinersMethod: Connecting two carabiners to mimic rotation.Risk: Carabiners bind under load, creating pinch points and increasing torque.Strength Loss: Cross-loading reduces carabiner strength by 50–70%.
- Bolt-and-Washer AssembliesMethod: Bolting metal plates or washers to create a pivot.Risk: Threads wear rapidly, and loose components can dislodge mid-use.
- Chain LinksMethod: Using a chain link as a rotating connector.Risk: Chains lack load ratings, and sharp edges damage ropes.
- 3D-Printed Plastic SwivelsMethod: Printing plastic swivels for light-duty use.Risk: Plastic degrades under UV exposure and cracks under minimal force.
Case Study: A Deadly Experiment
In 2019, a climber attempted a DIY swivel using a stainless steel bolt and two locking nuts. During a rappel, the bolt’s threads sheared under rotational stress, causing the rope to detach. The climber fell 15 meters, sustaining severe injuries. Forensic analysis revealed the bolt was rated for static loads only—not dynamic, multi-directional forces.
When Homemade Might Be “Acceptable” (and Still Risky)
In survival scenarios only, temporary alternatives could be used with extreme caution:
- Double-Carabiner “Swivel”Clip two locking carabiners back-to-back to allow limited rotation.Limits: Never load beyond 10% of the carabiners’ strength, and avoid dynamic movements.
- Rope GrommetTie a loop of high-strength rope through a carabiner to absorb some twist.Limits: Adds bulk and reduces control; retire immediately after use.
Critical Rule: Treat any DIY solution as a short-term, life-threatening compromise. Replace with certified gear ASAP.
The Science of Certification: Why It Matters
UIAA and CE certifications require swivel rings to pass:
- Tensile Tests: Loaded to 25+ kN without deformation.
- Rotation Cycles: 10,000+ rotations under load without binding.
- Corrosion Resistance: Salt-spray tests simulating years of exposure.
Homemade gear undergoes none of these, making its failure a question of “when,” not “if.”
Cost vs. Safety: The False Economy
A certified climbing swivel ring costs 20–20–100. Compare this to:
- Medical Bills: A single fall can incur thousands in emergency care.
- Gear Replacement: A failed DIY swivel can damage ropes, harnesses, or other gear.
- Legal Liability: Using uncertified gear may void insurance in professional settings.
Pro Tips for Budget-Conscious Climbers
- Buy Used (But Certified): Check platforms like Mountain Project for secondhand UIAA/CE gear.
- Rent Gear: Many climbing gyms or guide services rent swivel rings for trips.
- Prioritize Essentials: A swivel ring is cheaper than treating a broken leg.
The Bottom Line: Innovation vs. Recklessness
While DIY projects can be educational, climbing swivel rings are not candidates for experimentation. Their role in managing torque, friction, and load distribution demands precision engineering that homemade alternatives cannot replicate. For your safety—and the safety of those around you—invest in certified gear.
Final Warning: If you’re tempted to improvise, ask: Is this worth my life? The answer is always no.