How to Thread Rope Through Climbing Descent STOP: Precision Saves Lives
Threading your rope correctly for a Climbing Descent STOP (Safety Tie-Off Point) isn’t just technique – it’s your emergency brake system. A single error in positioning can render it useless during a fall. Follow this certified UIAA procedure:
Critical Threading Sequence
- Isolate the Brake StrandWeight your rappel system to identify the loaded strand below your device.Myth Bust: Never thread the STOP on unloaded ropes – friction hitches fail to engage predictably.
- Position the Friction Hitchmarkdown复制下载Correct Zone: 6-18 inches ABOVE rappel device Deadly Mistake: Below device = Zero braking function Tie Autoblock/Prusik directly on brake strand using 5-7mm cord (e.g., 6mm cord for 9.4-10.5mm ropes).
- Thread the CarabinerClip friction hitch loop to harness belay loop (NOT gear loops!) via screwgate locker.Orientation: Gate opposes rock direction to prevent accidental opening.
- Anchor IntegrationAt mid-rappel anchors: Clip the SAME carabiner to protection before descending past it.Never detach from harness – this maintains continuous redundancy.
Why Threading Order Matters
Physics dictates:
- Friction hitches require downward force to engage.
- Positioning above device ensures hitch tightens INSTANTLY if brake hand releases.
- Below-device placement creates lethal "slack zone" where hitches slide freely.
https://example.com/stop-threading-diagram.jpg
Visual: Correct (left) vs. deadly (right) threading positions
Pro Verification Protocol
Test EVERY STOP before descending:
- Weight system at anchor
- Release brake hand completely
- Shake rope aggressively – hitch should hold without slipping
- Add wraps if slippage occurs:Cold/wet ropes: 5-wrap AutoblockIcy conditions: Prusik + 1 extra wrap
Catastrophic Errors to Avoid
| Mistake | Consequence | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Hitch below device | Free-fall | Mark device with red tape |
| Non-locking carabiner | Hitch detaches in fall | Use UIAA-certified lockers |
| Rope twist in hitch | Delayed engagement | Pre-tension before descent |
| Oversized cord | Slips under load | Match cord/rope diameters |
When Threading Fails: Real Case Study
In Yosemite 2023, a climber threaded their Autoblock below their ATC. During rappel, rockfall knocked them unconscious. The hitch slid freely down the rope, resulting in fatal ground fall. Had it been threaded 8" above the device, the STOP would have arrested the fall at the last anchor.
"Threading a STOP isn't knotcraft – it's physics engineering. Millimeters matter."
– IFMGA Mountain Guide
Your Action Checklist
✅ Practice threading on ground with certified instructor
✅ Download Petzl’s "STOP Positioning Field Guide"
✅ Always triple-check:
- Hitch ON brake strand?
- Positioned ABOVE device?
- Locking carabiner secured?
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