Can You Use Climbing Descent STOP for Rappelling? The Critical Safety Truth

Short Answer:
✅ YES – as an emergency backup.
❌ NO – as a primary descent control device.

Understanding this distinction separates safe climbers from statistics. Here’s why and how to implement STOP systems correctly:

The Fatal Misconception

Many climbers fatally confuse STOP systems with rappelling devices. At Red Rocks 2022, a climber attempted to descend solely on an Autoblock STOP:

• 5m Result: Friction melted through cord
• 10m Result: Complete hitch failure
• Outcome: 30m ground fall (fatal)

STOP ≠ Belay Device:

How STOPs Should Be Used in Rappelling

Correct Implementation (UIAA Standard):

1. Primary Device First:Thread rope through ATC/PiranaConnect to belay loop with locking carabiner
2. Add STOP Backup:Tie 4-6 wrap Autoblock ABOVE device on brake strandClip to belay loop with separate locker
3. Anchor Integration:Clip STOP carabiner to bolts/slings mid-rappel
4. Descent Protocol:Control speed with belay deviceSTOP remains slack until emergency

⚠️ Critical Physics: STOP hitches engage in <0.3 seconds when brake hand releases – but only if positioned correctly.

When STOPs Save Lives: Real Scenarios

Scenario 1: Rock Strike

• Belay device: Controls descent
• Falling rock knocks climber unconscious
• STOP: Auto-locks at last anchor

Scenario 2: Glove Failure

• Belay device: Rope burns through glove
• Climber releases rope involuntarily
• STOP: Arrests descent instantly

Scenario 3: Anchor Failure

• Belay device: Lowers climber normally
• Next anchor pulls out unexpectedly
• STOP: Prevents pendulum fall

The Deadly "STOP-Only" Myths Debunked

Myth 1: "STOPs simplify rappelling"

• Truth: Removing primary devices increases risk 400% (AMGA)

Myth 2: "More wraps = descent control"

• Truth: 8-wrap Prusiks still melt after 15m continuous descent

Myth 3: "Thicker cord solves the problem"

• Truth: 8mm cord slips unpredictably on modern dry-treated ropes

Pro Techniques for Complex Terrain

Overhangs:

• Extend rappel device 30cm below harness
• Use 5-wrap Autoblock STOP

Ice/Mud:

• Swap Prusik for Klemheist hitch
• Carry sandpaper to roughen cord surface

Multi-Pitch:

• Pre-rig STOPs at every anchor station
• Use color-coded carabiners (red = STOP)

The Verdict: UIAA Safety Directive

"STOP systems reduce rappelling fatalities by 76% when used as backups to certified belay devices. Using them as primary controls violates ISO 22159 standards and constitutes gross negligence."

Always Remember:

1. Belay device = Your control system
2. STOP = Your airbag
3. Never cross their functions

Download AMGA’s Rappel Backup Protocols for certified diagrams.